
And unlike our sneaker game or how we style our jewelry, we can’t take this off and come up with some new dope shit. It was as if our very bodies were being appropriated. Fashion-magazine articles placing white women, like Instagram fitness influencer Jen Selter and Kim Kardashian, on the big-booty vanguard were painful. Slowly, though, I allowed that the butt trend felt unique. The New Balance 990s and Air Force 1’s Black teens rocked with the first-day-of-school fit eventually became “dad sneakers” popularized by thin white models. Today’s chic gold-ring-and-necklace stacking was simply how everyone around me wore jewelry in middle and high school. I had become resigned to white society embracing “trends” yet not the Black cultural origins of those trends. I grew up in Detroit in the ’90s, which by then had been an all-Black city for 20 years. I thought, Okay, y’all are real late, as usual. I began to understand that butts were becoming a thing for white folks probably as early as 2013. White people have always gotten a tan, but they never said they’re tanning to look less white - and certainly not more Black.” “I don’t think people would give Black women credit for, but they definitely want ,” says Boyd. The racial makeup of the BBL seeker is varied: Middle Eastern, Black, Hispanic, white. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, from 2017 to 2019, BBL procedures grew by 38 percent (the number dropped by 22 percent in 2020, but that decline is likely owed to COVID). A few years ago, he might have gotten that number in a month. (Miami too is a popular destination for BBL surgery.)īoyd now sees about five BBL consultations a week. (The Dominican Republic is a popular plastic-surgery-tourism destination.) And then there was the viral image of an email allegedly sent from a Miami-area hotel informing its patrons that it had neither the equipment nor the infrastructure to support post-op-recovery stays. Back in June, a widely circulated video depicted a couple dozen women in wheelchairs departing the Santo Domingo airport on a flight to Atlanta after presumably having BBL surgery. Before-and-after-BBL TikTok is a thing, of course, and so is BBL Pinterest: mostly as-cheery-as-possible lists of recovery tips and DIY recovery chairs (no sitting allowed for at least two weeks post-op). Although the BBL’s popularity has been growing over the past decade, we have now reached a unique point of both mainstreaming and frenzy.

But early on, celebrities were its adopters - Nicki Minaj and the majority of the Kardashian-Jenner family have the shape, though none has copped to having the procedure.

Now we see it on countless everyday influencers. It’s achieved primarily through a “buttock augmentation through fat grafting,” removing fat usually from the abdomen via liposuction, then transferring it to the hips and butt, a procedure popularly known as the “Brazilian butt lift” or BBL. He has seen the body ideal shift, too, from big breasts and straighter hips to what he describes as “all of the curves that Black women have been blessed with forever and many times ostracized for.” The look is an hourglass shape pushed to its extremes - tiny waist, wide hips, and the key: a large, high butt. “They know that fact as well as I do, but it’s important to say it - to say these are Black women’s lips so they know what they’re asking for.” But that’s not what’s desired anymore,” says Boyd, whose practice is based in Birmingham, Michigan. “That one-third–two-thirds thing came from only studying white women who had thin lips, and that’s the proportion they had.


He started highlighting that fact for his colleagues, other physicians and practitioners whom he trains to create those lips via injections. Through his work as a plastic surgeon and educator, Boyd knows that this 50-50 ratio is usually found on Black women. They want bigger lips, yes, but specifically a top lip that is the same size as the bottom, instead of the industry-standard recommendation of lip proportions of one-third to two-thirds, top to bottom. Charles Boyd has noticed a common request among his white millennial patients. Photo: © Tschabalala Self Courtesy the artist, Pilar Corrias Gallery, London, and Galerie Eva Presenhuber, Zurich / New Yorkįor years now, the Black plastic surgeon Dr.
